Contouring is used to shape and define the face by creating contrast between light and shadow. While the goal remains the same, the technique can vary depending on the desired finish.
Some approaches focus on structure and definition, while others aim for a softer, more natural result. Understanding the difference between these techniques allows for better control and more consistent outcomes.
Traditional Contouring: Structure First
The most widely used method is traditional contouring, where contour is applied after foundation.
In this technique, the base is first evened out with foundation, and then darker tones are added to areas such as:
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The cheekbones
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The jawline
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The sides of the nose
This approach creates visible structure. While effective, it can sometimes appear heavier if not blended carefully, especially when multiple layers of product are applied on top of each other.
Soft Contouring: A More Diffused Approach
Soft contouring follows the same placement as traditional contour but uses lighter application and more blending.
Instead of sharp lines, the focus is on subtle shading that enhances natural features without creating strong contrast.
This technique works well for everyday makeup, where the goal is to add dimension while keeping the skin looking natural and balanced.
Underpainting: Building Structure Beneath the Base
Underpainting is a technique that reverses the traditional order of application.
Instead of applying contour after foundation, contour and highlight are placed directly onto the skin first. Foundation is then applied over these layers, blending everything together into a more seamless result.
This method allows the structure to sit within the skin rather than on top of it.
The Samer Khouzami Approach
Samer Khouzami is known for using underpainting as a key part of his technique.
By placing contour and light before the base, the final result appears more natural and controlled. The features are defined, but without visible lines or heavy layering.
This approach allows:
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Softer transitions between light and shadow
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A more skin-like finish
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Better integration between products
Rather than building structure on top of the skin, underpainting creates it from within.
The Right Technique for You
Contouring is not about changing the face, but about enhancing its natural structure.
The technique you choose determines whether the result looks bold, soft, or seamlessly blended.
With the right approach, contouring becomes less about visible lines and more about controlled, natural definition.